The American Legacy - Good and Bad

Bill Clinton is a hero here in HCMC. They sell his book on every street corner (counterfeit versions I suspect). They love him for normalizing relations and lifting economic sanctions in 1994. It has significantly improved everyone's standard of living. Then he visited here in late 2000 (stayed at the hotel we're in) and was treated like a rock star. Of course there is no mention of Dubya here, he is a non-entity.

This is a communist country in politics only. Everywhere you look, people are working and it is a capitalistic business society. You can buy everything and anything here, except Nike shoes. Nike has an enormous plant outside of town, but they have tight security. Everything is made for export only, so they can control counterfeit production and sales. Erin - you would be very pleased to know that any kind of multi-split heating unit is available here, they are sold all over the place. Do you need us to pick up any spare parts?

Last week, Intel announced they are going to build a new plant here (beating out China) and Vietnam is trying hard to get into the WTO.

On the bad side, we went to a number of historic places yesterday that reminded us of the American War (that's what they call it here) and its devastation. We first went to the Cu Chi Tunnels. There were over 250 km of them and they were several stories deep in places. 16,000 Vietnamese lived in them for over 7 years, inflitrating the South Vietnamese and US Military. They even were underneath the large U.S. military base outside of town. We entered the tunnels, (pictures to be posted later), Claustrophobic is an understatement. Even a jockey would not be able to survive in there. It was hot, humid and flithy. The U.S. eventually bombed the area to obliteration, and it cost many lives on both sides for years trying to fight the insurgency. But the low-tech Viet Cong approach won out.

We also went to the War Remnants Museum. It is the Vietnamese version of the Holocaust Museum in Washington, DC. Many gruesome photos, reminding everyone of the loss of life and cruelty by all sides in the war. It has a definite Vietnamese slant to it though through the use of many pictures taken by Western journalists. Former Senator Bob Kerrey is considered a major war criminal, however Senator John Kerry is considered a hero because he denounced the war when he returned to the U.S..

For lunch we had a Banh Mi - a Vietnamese unique sandwich. Made on a baquette, it's like a hoagie with all kinds of VN stuff in it. Sliced pork or ham, a slice of pate', veggies, and chili sauce. We can't figure out how they are able to keep the rolls crispy in this heat and humidity. I think they must replenish the supply every hour.


There are a zillion motorbikes and very few cars. Everyone has a motorbike - they call them all "Honda" even if they are of other manufacturers. Talk about successful brand recognition!

Crossing the street is an Olympic event. No one pays attention to traffic lights, if there are any. You don't wait for a break in traffic, you just start walking slowly across the street and look straight ahead. The motorbikes just avoid you. One Chinese man last night was applauded when he crossed the busy street in front of our hotel at the height of "rush hour." We shook his hand in congratulations.

Every evening, families jump on their motorbike (all 3, 4, or even 5 of them on one bike) and go cruising the streets. It's their form of entertainment and beating the heat.

The "French" have left a lasting legacy here on three counts.

1. They taught the Vietnamese how to bake the best bread and pasteries in all of Southeast Asia.
2. They made strong drip coffee the national beverage, the best I have ever had, hot and cold.
3. Dien Bien Phu - Never, ever count on the French for any military support .