Last night we stayed at the Masseria Montelauro. A "masseria" is an old fortified farm. They built walls around the farm compound to try and repel invaders. It seems like every ancient civilization invaded this area at least once. Hundreds of years ago, Otranto was overrun by the Turks and they slaughtered thousands of local people. The Pugliese people still remember.
In recent years, people have been buying up these old farms, rebuilding the ruined buildings, and opening small, luxury hotels. This place is gorgeous - on a hillside overlooking the coast, surrounded by olive groves and farmland. The rooms are ultra-modern design (very Italian).
We ate dinner at a 12th century castle that has been restored by the original family. Quite a building, but it must be terrible to heat in the winter. Lots and lots of Puglia wine to drink - good thing we're not driving the van home. We're headed off now on our second day of bicycling. The next post will cover our coastal ride and pasta making class. 
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